Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
